How to Paint Cornhole Boards: DIY Tips
What Is Cornhole?
Cornhole is a lawn game played with beanbags and wooden boards. The objective is to toss the bags into a hole on the boards; this yields 3 points. Getting the bag on the board is worth 1 point.
Painting and Personalizing Your Set
Put your creativity to good use and make your cornhole set pleasing to the eyes with a DIY paint job. As a bonus, painting your set also protects the wood. Follow the instructions below to get started.
Overview of the Steps
- Get ready to paint by applying wood putty and sanding.
- Apply primer.
- Lay out the design.
- Pick your paint.
- Paint your boards.
- Apply MinWax.
- Go play!
1. Get Ready to Paint
One of the most fulfilling parts of creating your own cornhole sets is the design. You've already put in a lot of time and work to make the set; now you want to make sure it looks great so you can show it off to your friends. Before you get ready to prime and paint it, you must do some prep work.
- Take some wood putty and fill in all the holes from the screws and nails and any other blemishes that might be in the surface. If you chose to use a really nice piece of hardwood plywood, you will hopefully have very few things to fill.
- After the putty dries, make sure you give a nice hand sanding to the entire surface so everything is smooth and flush.
- Take a lightly damp rag and wipe off the surfaces to get rid of any dust that might be remaining before you begin to use the primer.
2. Apply Primer
Since the boards are made out of plywood, we need to get a nice base for our paint. The first step in the process is put primer on everything. I used a Rustoleum primer that sticks to anything. This is important to give your paint a solid surface to stick to. This process should be a very quick part, since you don't have to worry about making it look perfect.
One warning is that primer is nearly impossible to get off of anything (including yourself). I used a super cheap sponge brush to apply the primer so I could just toss it in the trash afterwards. DO NOT use a quality brush, as it will be ruined once this process is finished. This part doesn't need to look great; just make sure all the wood is covered.
3. Lay Out the Design
The best part of the process is getting to design and paint your board however you want. There really are no limits. You can be as creative or simple as you want. Slight warning: More creative designs take more time and more patience, but are well worth it in the end. If you want straight, crisp lines on your boards, then painters tape is essential. I always use Frog Tape; I think it is by far the best painters tape around. You can measure out your designs, mark with a pencil, and lay your tape down.
I chose a variety of stripes on my boards, fairly simple. This process was a bit more time consuming simply because I chose to use 4 different colors. This means you have to apply multiple coats and continue letting them dry before you can move on to the next color. Also, more colors equals more money (cost). So consider that before you lay out your design. You shouldn't need more than a quart of any color of paint, so don't waste money buying paint by the gallon.
4. Pick Your Paint
There are a few key issues to address when beginning the painting process.
- Choosing the correct type of paint is very important. If you aren't familiar with paints, you will be completely lost when you walk into Home Depot, Lowe's, or some other paint store. There are a million types of paints, and often the associates aren't as knowledgeable as they should be in order to give appropriate advice.
- When you are choosing your paint, you want to choose an Exterior Semi-Gloss Enamel. I never get an oil-based paint because it's such a hassle to clean and ruins everything else it touches (hence why I hate primer). So save yourself a headache and get a water-based latex paint and life will go more smoothly.
- I chose a Behr Premium Plus paint and they can color it any way you want. It washes out of your brushes very easily and off of your hands, etc.
- Like I said earlier, there is no reason to get more than a quart of any color; a quart is more than enough to paint your boards with multiple coats.
5. Paint Your Boards
Continue to be patient as you paint. It's very important that you don't leave any drips or bubbles in your paint. For this reason, I always use a brush and never a roller. Make sure you put multiple coats of each paint; you want this to be a quality product. Let paint completely dry before you apply each additional coat.
6. Apply MinWax
Once you have everything painted the way you desire, there is one more critical step to go. To protect the paint and your cornhole set, you need to add a clear coat polycrylic. Essentially, you are waxing your board with a clear coat. This will protect everything you have just labored hours on, but it will also make your board shiny and slick.
The best product for this stage is made by MINWAX. It's water based Polycrylic protective finish. I'll warn you that it isn't too cheap, but don't skip out on this step. Once again, you won't need a lot of this, so a quart will be plenty.
When you apply this to the board, make sure your paint is extra dry before starting the process. Follow the directions on the can, but essentially, you apply it just like you would paint. If you are nervous, there are plenty of YouTube videos that can help show you how to apply the polycrylic.
- Apply nice, thick coats. The more coats the better. I always do a minimum of 5 coats, but usually like to apply 7-8 coats.
- Once again, it's very important to let it completely dry before each coating.
- Use a brush, not a roller.
7. Go Play!
Last but not least, after everything has had time to dry completely, it is time to take your beautiful creation outside and test it out.
Questions & Answers
I always seem to have trouble with painter's tape. I put it on fine, but am not sure when the best time to take it off is. Is it better to remove it right away while the paint is still wet (and redo the tape for multiple coats), or after the paint is dry?
You need to get a quality painter's tape. I would leave it on for all of the coats and remove it at the end.
If you tried to redo the tape each time, you would have a very difficult time perfectly matching the line.
So, buy a great tape, and just leave it on until the last coat.Helpful 30
I used a spray primer and paint (all in one) and the boards are too slick. How can I slow them down?
In truth, actual corn hole boards are supposed to be quite slick to make it more difficult.
For those of us who aren't as skilled we don't want it as slick. I've never used a paint and primer in one for this. You'll need to see if there is a clear coat that is matte or semi gloss finish.
Or if the board is solid color, you could paint over it with a less glossy finished paint.
Lastly, you could scuff it up a little with sand paper, but I'm not sure how that would look depending on the design of the board.Helpful 24
I'm planning on painting part of the board, but leaving the wood exposed on part, likely with some kind of wood stain to make the color darker. Do you have any advice/have you ever done this before? Should I stain only the part where the wood is going to be exposed? Or can I stain the whole thing and then paint over the stain?
Great question. That all depends on the amount of time/work you want to spend and the type of paint you end up using. If you stain the whole thing, you will save yourself a little time and headache, but then you will need a higher quality paint, which will need to have a primer that can go over the stain.
You will be able to achieve great results either way, but my preference would be to only stain the portions that will be showing as a stain in the finished product. This will allow the painted areas to saturate the wood and be guaranteed to have no issues with the stain down the road. Once again, you can honestly do it either way; you will just need to make sure your paint is the proper type to go over stain if you choose to go that route.Helpful 20
When using multiple layers of polycyclic do I need to lightly sand after each coat?
I did not sand between costs. The only reason I would find that necessary is if for some reason the costs were not being applied evenly.
Do I need to sand my boards if I decide to repaint them?
I would sand the boards before repainting if it were my own set of boards.
Having said that, there are definitely paints that can go over the top of the existing paint, and as long as you do multiple levels of clear coat on top, you likely will see no issues, as this will smooth/level out any bumps.Helpful 4